Thursday, September 15, 2011

A Little Bit of Know! Best Skin Care Routine

Nowadays, I have been searching far and wide (internet-wise) for the best way to care for my face and I have come across mountains of information that even I don't even know how to catalog it in my mind anymore. Still, in my quest, quite a few things stood out. This is not in proper order, so forgive the random thoughts here and there (I'm not really a blogger nor a writer so grammatical mistakes may abound).

The American way to maintain their facial skin is this: 

Cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Moisturize
This is also specially recommended by Dermatologists and Skincare Specialists. If I remember what I read correctly, it seems this routine was started by Clinique using their 3 steps skin care product (didn't delve into this).

A few years down the road, a new regimen was introduced, it was pretty much same as the one above but with the addition of Sunscreen. So the newer skin care routine became this: 

Cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Moisturize -> Protect
This applies especially in the morning where we always get into direct contact from the sun, thereby needing to protect ourselves from its harmful effect that can cause skin cancer, wrinkles, freckles and damages caused by the sun. As it is, products are being produced which combines Moisturizers ans Sunscreen for easier application. However, this means that you will need to purchase two types of moisturizers as a Day Cream and a Night Cream.

So, the 3-step routine ended up gaining an additional branch simply because you don't really need to use sunscreen at night. It is not needed nor is it especially recommended for your skin as it may aggravate your skin (sunscreens can't be used 24/7).

So the skin care routine became like this:

<1> MORNING: Cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Moisturize -> Protect

<2> EVENING: Cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Moisturize

So, All is well and good, right? Apparently not. Somewhere down the road, some other stuffs were jampacked on the EVENING Skin Care Regimen. Hypes about, facial mask, toning, hot towels and massage were added to confuse women all the more. The thing about these routine addition (especially for those who are newbies to skin care) is that you really don't know how to go about it. 

What's the chronological order on applying these skin care products/exercise?

According what I have read, it was supposed to be like this:

Evening: Cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Massage -> Mask -> Tone -> Moisturize

Then again, facial massage cannot be done on a daily basis as it can stimulate your oil glands. It is only recommended to be done 2-3 times a week except of course if you have really dry skin, then you will benefit greatly from a daily facial massage. I heard that the same is true with the Facial Mask.

Toners on the other hand are considerably just an optional part of the skin care routine. What does it do in the first place? According to a post that I have read, Cleansing opens your pores to clean out the debris whereas Toning closes it up. Based on the lot that I have read from different posts, although toning is only optional, it seems that a lot of women abide it and attest its effectivity. Another use of toning is to bring back the pH balance to your skin that gets removed by cleansing. (about toning, is it important?)

I, on the other hand, really don't have any good or bad comment about this because it is something that I do on and off or only from time-to-time. It's because I realized that a week after using toners, I somehow tend to have pimple breakouts which never happens me (2-3 at a time, but never 5-7 pimples at a time). I used two brands of toner already and it happened on both times. The thing is, if your skin is not compatible to a skin care product it is said that you'll get pimples or break outs 2-3 days after using the product. So, the fact that it takes a week or two for the breakouts to happen leaves me doubtful if it is due to the toner. I am guessing that my pores doesn't like being blocked or closed up. I do have large pores especially on my nose due to too much extraction (I extract those little sebums in the pores myself, not a good way to do things but I did it, w/c ended up giving me a bad skin). So, that's my little input about the additional skin routine.

Then again, something happened. Those crazy skin experts was not happy with simply confusing the hell out of the women. They wanted war! They ended up introducing this really interesting Skin Care Routine "The Korean Way".

People from all over the world were so envious of the beautiful korean skin that they wanted to know the secret piece by piece. I on the other hand, also loves their beautiful skin that even I looked up on it. And this is what I have learned.

According to an article, Koreans have their own way of Skin Care (K-popped). Actually, I am simply confusing you. Almost everything is the same with one or two addition to the GROWING list of Skin care Routine. To summarize what I have learned their routine goes like this: 

Double Cleansing -> Massage -> Mask -> Tone -> Essence -> Moisturize

Double cleansing is subdivided to <1> Remove make-up using make-up remover or cleansing oil. <2> Cleanse

Massage, Mask and Tone have already been explained above.

Essence or Serum, now, here's what I was talking about, the newly added skin routine. It says that serum are concentrated liquid treatments (anti-ageing, vitamin/mineral concentrated for direct application to your face) you can use to correct skin problems. Personally, I have not yet tried this because, Serums or ESSENCE are especially expensive but I'll have an input on other stuffs later on for your further confusion ^_^ 

So moving on, I then stumbled upon this another Korean Beauty steps: Refine -> Emulsify -> Essence -> Cream (Laneige)

Now, this is something I stopped delving on, with so much beauty tips, routine, regimen and etc stuck to my brain, I don't really want to confuse myself more or I might end up with a 20-step beauty routine afterwards.

Just a side note, Emulsion is pretty much a lighter kind of moisturizer that hydrates your skin and locks in moisture but the cream in the 4th step is also a moisturizer.

So, over all, here is the summary of the korean skin care routine:

1.Make up remover 
2.cleansing oil (shu uemura)
3. Cleansing foam/cleanser
4.Massage 2x a week
5.Clarifying/Moisture Mask 1-2 times a week
6.Emulsify
7.Tone
8.Essence/Serum
9.Moisturizer Cream

Still, you haven't seen the rest of it yet! Especially the list of make-up products the use before going out of the house (just read this).

In the end, skin care routine became this complicated:

<1> MORNING: Cleanse -> Exfoliate -> Moisturize -> Protect
<2> EVENING: Double Cleansing -> Exfoliate -> Massage -> Mask -> Tone -> Essence -> Moisturize

Finally, after going through all that research I came to a few facts and very important routines that I'd like to follow myself

Sunscreens. Always check the UVA & UVB content of your sunscreen. To undertsand it more, read this link from K-popped for a simplified explanation about it.

Moisturizers. A must to hydrate your skin and keep it supple.

Exfoliation. You don't need to use exfoliating microbeads. Facial sponge is a great way to exfoliate your skin without contributing to pollution caused by the non-biodegradable microbeads (forgot what source I got this from)

Strokes. Everything should be done in an Upward and outward, soft and smooth strokes like you have all the time in the world in all aspect of your skin care product application. It keeps your skin from sagging.

Serum. Give it 5 minutes to be absorbed before putting on your moisturizer.

Topical Collagen and Elastin to minimize wrinkles or for anti-ageing. Don't believe product that advertise beautiful skin by applying their creams that has Collagen or Elastin in it as an ingredient.  One important fact about Elastin is that it cannot be absorbed by the skin because it's molecules are bigger than the skin'd molecules. I have read in a post that for the elastin to be effectively absorbed by the skin, it has to be in Nano-size. meaning, hundreds to thousand times smaller than molecules. The best thing to do is to enhance the production of collagen and elastin (affect the process not the product itself). There are a few food supplement that enhances production of collagen. Try investing time and effort learning about Grapeseed Oil, CoQ10, Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E. All of which has great anti-ageing side effects. Products that can help in producing Collagens and Elastin should have ingredients like, peptides, amino acids, retinol and amino-peptides, all of which can emphasize elastin/collagen production. Of course the result does not come at once, invest a few weeks to months to see the dfference. If it still does not work, because they say that it doesn't work to some, you can go for the MMP inhibitors (smartskincare) that typically slows the breakdown of collagen.

Multi-Vitamins. After all of the stuffs that I have read, I came into the conclusion to instead purchase food supplements that has Vitamins A, C & E in them. Searching for the product brought me to two brands, one is ConZace and the other is, Vigor-ACE. Both products have Vitamin AC&E, only with different concentrations. I have read that this is very effective but basically gives a nasty side effect if your body is not compatible w/ it. I think it simply means that you have your own sufficient supply and taking it means you are overdosing yourself.

What is the content of ConZace and Vigor-ACE?
CONZACE   :   Vitamin A - 5,000 IU, Vitamin C - 500 mgs, Vitamin E - 100 IU, Zinc - 25 mgs
VIGOR-ACE :  Vitamin A - 7,500 IU, Vitamin C - 250 mgs, Vitamin E - 100 IU, Zinc - 20 mgs, Selenium - 50 mcg, Lecithin Soya - 200 mgs

Apparently, Vigor-Ace is more expensive than ConZace. looking at the content, I am assuming that Vigor-ACE is targeted to a more specific and older age group due to the high amount of Vitamin A and Selenium. Selenium is another important mineral that produces anti-oxidant enzymes which prevents cellular damage (Selenium). However, it is toxic when taken in excessive amount. RDA for 19+ years (both male and female) is 55 mcg per day.

For now, I going to start taking ConZace. Instead of buying topical Vitamins and minerals I decided to take on the food supplement approach because let's face it, anything taken inside the body has a more longterm and effective results.  I will be posting my findings about ConZace after a month. I'm just hoping that I don't get the nasty side effect (I am slightly confident coz I think, I am very malnourished in terms of proper Vitamin intake).

Another thing, ConZace and Vigor-Ace are pretty much recommended by dermatologists to fight of Acne and for a more beautiful skin and to heal woulds faster. I on the otherhand also recommends CoQ10. You'll get to see how miraculous this one works when you get your tooth extracted. Taking CoQ10 will enhance your healing time twice as fast or faster, my tooth healed in about 3 weeks, sadly it is a food supplement that is also expensive that I stopped taking it due to lack of funds.

(for now, I'll consider this finished even though I still want to add a few more details coz it is seriously getting longer)